Six and a Half Million Households Quit Buying Salad in a Single Month. Eighty-Two Percent Say They Will Come Back When This Is Contained. The Industry Cannot Message Its Way to Contained.

· Marler Blog ·

5 min read Original article ↗

Numerator put a number this week on what everyone in the produce business already feels. More than 6.5 million American households stopped buying salad mixes and kits in the month ending July 26, against the month before. Eighty-seven percent of produce shoppers know about the Cyclospora outbreak. More than a quarter of households say they have quit salads and fresh greens entirely and another one in ten has cut back, which Numerator puts at roughly $280 million in consumer produce spending at risk for every month this continues. In the states with more than two hundred reported cases, per-household spending fell 10.7 percent. Salad trips at quick-service restaurants fell more than 16 percent.

The finding I would put in front of every board in this industry is the last one in the release. Among the people who stopped buying bagged salad, 82 percent say they will buy it again once the outbreak is contained. Contained. Not once they have been reassured. Not once the campaign runs. Not once somebody explains again that we have the safest food supply in the world. Consumers have named their condition, it is factual, they can check it, and they are waiting.

The second finding is the one public health should be worried about. People are not substituting. Forty-five percent said they had switched or planned to switch to other forms of produce, but household penetration rose three-tenths of a point for canned vegetables and one-tenth for frozen. That is not a shift inside the category. That is Americans eating fewer vegetables, and it is landing on the same public the federal government is telling to eat more whole food.

None of this is falling where the contamination was. California lettuce was never implicated in this outbreak, and California growers plowed under about a third of the crop that was ready to harvest anyway. Sysco stopped buying Mexican iceberg altogether while its chief executive said in the same breath that Taylor Farms is a high-quality, high-integrity shop, and both of those things were true at once. When a buyer cannot show a customer which case came from which field, walking away from the whole category is the only risk management left to him. That is what a collective reputation is. I have written this before under the title Reap What You Sow. Traceability is not a tax on the innocent. It is the only thing that protects them.

And it is why a communications answer will not work here. When IFIC asked people who lack confidence in the food supply why, they said profit is prioritized over safety, fifty-nine percent; that the parts of the food system do not work together, fifty-four; that regulation is insufficient, forty-six; and that there are too many recalls, forty-three. Not one of those is a messaging problem. And confidence in federal food safety oversight was already at a record low of fifty-three percent last July, before a single person in this outbreak got sick. The line has never once recovered from an outbreak that moved it.

The way back is the substantive list, and I have made it twice already this summer. The trade associations can move tomorrow morning without anyone’s permission: say out loud that the Food Traceability Rule should take effect on its original schedule and put a Cyclospora-specific water standard into the leafy greens metrics without waiting for FDA to write one. Growers, shippers and buyers can treat the water and validate the treatment against the right organism, because the metrics already require treatment of surface water applied overhead within twenty-one days of harvest and then score it against generic E. coli, while FDA says in its own voice that chlorine does not work on this parasite and that indicator testing will not find it. Add human-specific markers so you know when human waste is in your irrigation source. Build the lot-level records now instead of in 2028, because any large buyer can require traceability by contract without help from Congress. Extend field sanitation to every crew and not only to operations with eleven or more hand laborers. And publish the audit results, which was Dave Puglia’s idea and not mine.

I have been hard on this industry all summer, and I have also given credit where it was earned and said which groups asked for the delay, and which did not. Here is the credit that matters now: 82 percent of the people who walked away have already told a pollster the terms of their return. Nobody has to guess what the customer wants. Contained is not a slogan. It is a lot code, a water standard aimed at the organism that is actually in the water, and a record somebody can pull in a day instead of a month. Build that and the customers come back on their own. Keep lobbying against it and the next season buys the same lesson at the same price.