Adversarial Fashion Makes a Statement on AI Panopticon

· IEEE Spectrum ·

5 min read Original article ↗

AI-powered cameras dot streets across the world, equipped with the power to identify faces or vehicle license plates. But a public backlash is gaining momentum.

Privacy concerns abound, encompassing the lack of consent for capturing data, how that data is stored and used, and the risk of misuse. Those concerns are motivating people to fight back. The DeFlock project, for instance, maps automated license plate readers (ALPRs) to raise awareness. Some people resort to extreme measures, such as vandalizing or damaging ALPRs. Others are stitching together more creative responses, crafting “adversarial fashion” to evade surveillance cameras, like a Kickstarter project called noRecognition, presented at last month’s DEF CON hacker convention.

Scrambling surveillance

In 2025, cybersecurity expert Bill Swearingen began experimenting with a simple Python-based fuzzer, a tool that provides invalid inputs to reveal software bugs, security vulnerabilities, or unexpected behavior. The fuzzer targeted one of the most popular object detection frameworks, called YOLO. He then developed what he’d learned into a reinforcement learning algorithm that generates various adversarial patterns, which he presented at DEF CON.

Each pattern is a colorful geometric abstraction he has tested against 11 object detection models—four that search faces, two that recognize faces, and five that detect people—most of which are publicly available. Successful patterns thwart the object-detection systems, lowering their confidence scores, sometimes even to the point of no detection.

“Privacy is a human right, and the popularity of this just goes to show that people are interested in preserving their privacy,” Swearingen says.

Cap_able and Urban Privacy are already selling physical garments. Cap_able’s patented manufacturing method weaves its bright and bold motifs into jacquard knitted fabrics. The ethically produced and sustainably made dresses, pants, and tops interfere with certain computer vision systems, particularly those backed by fast convolutional neural networks, which may lead them to classify wearers as animals or objects.

“If we’re able to camouflage a person as something else, then we’re obtaining our goal,” says Cap_able founder Rachele Didero, who’s also an assistant professor at the Free University of Bozen-Bolzano in Italy. “We use this very visible and tangible item to talk about something that most of the time is intangible.”

Meanwhile, Urban Privacy aims to baffle some facial recognition systems based on OpenCV algorithms with its latest Faception Reloaded collection. Black-and-white prints abstracted from a human face show up as additional faces on detectors, slowing them down. Asymmetrical cuts and wide silhouettes intend to conceal, making it harder to discern your body’s shape and gait. “The idea is to create false data,” says cofounder Daniel Preuß.

Three individuals modeling a neck gaiter, t-shirt and hoodie with abstract vibrant patterns. Simulated patterns of the kind intended to disrupt machine vision person detectors.noRecognition

“Not an invisibility cloak”

Anti-surveillance fashion can trace its roots to the art pieces, DIY projects, and thought experiments that emerged in response to the onset of AI surveillance systems more than a decade ago. For instance, technologist Adam Harvey developed multiple designs in the 2010s—from hairstyles and makeup that foil face detectors to heat-reflecting attire that avert drone-enabled thermal surveillance. In 2019, artist and activist Kate Bertash created her aptly named Adversarial Fashion clothing line decked with fake license plate numbers to inject junk data into ALPR databases.

The trend is now growing into a more solidified small industry. “Clothing is something you can actually buy and put on, unlike policy,” says Niloofar Mireshghallah, incoming professor of engineering and public policy at Carnegie Mellon University. “It’s a way of saying, ‘I didn’t consent to this.’”

But real-world conditions might reduce the effectiveness of countersurveillance clothing, such as camera angles, lighting, and how fabric folds as you move. “One good frame is all a system needs,” Mireshghallah says.

Motion and gait recognition are also influential factors. “Even if the camera thinks you’re a bear for a few frames, there’s a bear walking like you,” Mireshghallah says.

The adversarial patterns must also be tuned to specific object recognition models, so they cannot resist a different model. And once surveillance system operators train a future generation of models on a given adversarial pattern and the person wearing it, which they could do manually, clothing will no longer be a sufficient defense.

“It remains a fragile shield against a threat that is constantly improving from multiple angles,” says Dippu Kumar Singh, senior director of emerging data and analytics at Fujitsu North America who specializes in vision AI and AI ethics.

Makers are aware of their creations’ limitations. “It’s not an invisibility cloak,” Preuß says. “Surveillance aims to capture your identity, and fashion is about expressing your identity. We’re making clothing that people can wear to make a statement about the importance of privacy in a digital world.”

Active defense

Even with these hurdles, Cap_able’s Didero is determined to keep innovating. Urban Privacy will continue to release other parts of its collection, including a “shadow cap” that has an acrylic face shield layered with cutouts to blur facial contours. Swearingen plans to explore a few anomalies he has encountered, such as a pattern that shifted the bounding box and another pattern that changed a camera setting.

Adversarial fashion holds promise despite its pitfalls. “At its core, this fashion is about taking back control of your face and body,” Singh says. “People are starting to realize that privacy isn’t just a right they can passively expect to be handed to them—it is something they have to actively defend.”

Mireshghallah offers a more cautious approach, viewing countersurveillance fashion as a speed bump rather than an ultimate solution. The real risk, she notes, is aggregation: Models take a group of weak signals, such as a partial face, a building in the background, a time stamp, a social media post someone tagged you in, and stitch them together to make a confident guess about who you are and where you were.

“None of those pieces give you away on their own, but together they do,” Mireshgallah says. “My advice is don’t just think about hiding your face from a lens. Think about what else you’re leaking that can be combined with it. That side information is often what actually identifies you— and no pattern on a shirt fixes that.”